AllTrade Home Inspection, Seattle, Tacoma, Bellevue, Olympia, Federal Way, Kent, Renton, Issaquah, Maple Valley, Auburn, Bonney Lake, Puyallup, King County, Pierce County, Thurston County, Kitsap County, Washington, Inspector.

Aerogel

admin — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 16:45:02 +0000

Aerogel

Aerogel is a class of porous, solid materials that exhibits an impressive array of extreme properties. Invented in 1931 and used for decades in scientific applications, aerogel is becoming increasingly feasible as a building insulation, largely due to a decrease in the price of the material.

Aerogel is still prohibitively costly for most homeowners, and the few who can afford it probably don’t know what it is. At expensive properties with environmentally friendly features, however, inspectors should be prepared to encounter the material. Also, prevalence of aerogel is likely to increase in the coming years as it becomes more affordable and widely known.

Physical Properties and Identification

Aerogel holds 15 world records for material properties, a few of which are listed below. Aerogel is:

lightweight. It is, in fact, the lowest-density solid on the planet. Some types are composed of more than 99% air, yet they still function as solids;
extremely high in surface area. It can have a surface area up to 3,000 square meters per gram, meaning that a cubic inch of aerogel, if flattened out, could cover an entire football field; and
strong. It can support up to 4,000 times its own weight. In the picture at right, a 2-gram piece of the material is supporting a 5-pound brick.

The following qualities will also assist with identification. Aerogel:

appears blue due to Rayleigh scattering, the same phenomenon that colors the sky;
feels like Styrofoam® to the touch. Although a slight touch will not leave a mark, pressing more firmly will leave a lasting depression or even produce a catastrophic breakdown in the structure, causing it to shatter like glass; and
is rigid. Despite its name, it is hard and dry, little resembling the gel from which it was derived.

Performance as an Insulator

Composed almost entirely of gas, which is a poor heat conductor, aerogel can almost nullify the three methods of heat transfer (conduction, convection and radiation). Boasting an R-value of 10 to 30, NASA has used the material to protect astronauts and equipment, such as the Mars Rover, from the extreme cold of space. As compared to conventional insulation material, the R-values of vermiculite, rockwool, fiberglass and cellulose are approximately 2.13, 3.1, 3 and 3.1, respectively. Silica aerogel is especially valuable because silica is also a poor conductor of heat. A metallic aerogel, on the other hand, would be less useful as an insulator.

Production

Aerogel are derived from gels, which are substances in which solid particles span a liquid medium. The first aerogel was produced from silica gels, although later work involved alumina, chromia, carbon and tin oxide. Through a process called super-critical drying, the liquid component of the gel is removed, leaving behind the hollow, solid framework. The resulting aerogel is a porous, ultra-lightweight lattice composed of more than 90% air. Ordinarily, drying of a gel results in its shrinkage and collapse (think of Jell-O left out for a few days), but super-critical drying is performed under intense heat and pressure that preserve the structure of the gel.

Manufacturers offer the material in a variety of forms, such as the granules pictured at right, made by Cabot, which are sometimes used as insulation in skylights. Aspen Aerogel® offers 57-inch wide rolls of the material in 0.2- or 0.4-inch thicknesses, while Thermoblok® has 1.5-inch wide strips, which are used to cover framing studs and help prevent thermal bridging, and which costs about $1.99 per foot.

Safety

Aerogel safety is dependent on the safety of the gel from which it was made; it will be carcinogenic, for instance, if the gel from which it was derived had this quality. Fortunately, silica-based aerogel is not known to be dangerous, although it may irritate skin, mucous membranes, eyes, the respiratory tract and the digestive system. Aerogel is hydroscopic and extremely dry to the touch, which can, in turn, cause it to dry out unprotected skin. Gloves and goggles are recommended for inspectors and contractors who must handle the material.

Aerogel does not seem to be an environmental threat. Aspen Aerogel’s® website states, “Aerogel blankets do not meet any of the characteristics of a U.S. EPA hazardous waste,” and further states that scrap aerogel may be disposed in landfills that are approved to accept industrial waste.

In summary, aerogel is a safe, remarkably effective thermal insulator whose use should become more widespread as it becomes more affordable.

AllTrade Home Inspection – Seattle, Tacoma, Bellevue, Everett,

Bremerton, Olympia;

Auburn, Bonney Lake, Burien, Covington, Des Moines, Edmonds, Enumclaw, Federal Way, Issaquah, Kent, Lacey, Lake Forest Park, Lakewood, Maple Valley, Puyallup, Redmond, Renton, Sammamish, SeaTac, , Shoreline, Tukwila, Tumwater, University Place.

Adjustable Steel Columns

admin — Sun, 14 Mar 2010 20:44:08 +0000

Adjustable Steel Columns

Adjustable steel columns, also known as screw jacks and beam jacks, are hollow steel posts designed to provide structural support. An attached threaded adjustment mechanism is used to adjust the height of the post.

A few facts about adjustable steel columns:

They are usually found in basements.
In some parts of North America, adjustable steel columns are called “lally columns,” although this term sometimes applies to columns that are concrete-filled and non-adjustable.
They can be manufactured as multipart assembles, sometimes called telescopic steel columns, or as single-piece columns.

The following are potentially defective conditions:

The post is less than 3 inches in diameter. According to the 2006 International Residential Code (IRC), Section R407.3, columns (including adjustable steel columns)…”shall not be less than 3-inch diameter standard pipe.”

Poles smaller than three inches violate the IRC, although they are not necessarily defective. A 2½-inch post may be adequate to support the load above it, while a 4-inch post can buckle if the load exceeds the structural capacity of the post. Structural engineers, not inspectors, decide whether adjustable steel posts are of adequate size.

The post is not protected by rust-inhibitive paint. The IRC, in section R407.2, states,

All surfaces (inside and outside) of steel columns shall be given a shop coat of rust-inhibitive paint, except for corrosion-resistant steel and steel treated with coatings to provide corrosion resistance.

Inspectors will not be able to identify paint as rust-inhibitive. In dry climates where rust is not as much of a problem, rust-inhibitive paint may not be necessary. Visible signs of rust constitute a potential defect.

The post is not straight. According to some sources, the maximum lateral displacement between the top and bottom of the post should not exceed 1 inch. However, tolerable lateral displacement is affected by many factors, such as the height and diameter of the post. The post should also not bend at its mid-point. Bending is an indication that the column cannot bear the weight of the house.
The column is not mechanically connected to the floor. Inspectors may not be able to confirm whether a connection between the post and the floor exists if this connection has been covered by concrete.
The column is not connected to the beam. The post should be mechanically connected to the beam above to provide additional resistance against lateral displacement.
More than 3 inches of the screw thread is exposed.
There are cracks in upstairs walls. This condition may indicate a failure of the columns.

In summary, AllTrade Home inspectors may want to inspect adjustable steel columns for problems, although a structural engineer may be required to confirm serious issues.

AllTrade Home Inspection – Seattle, Tacoma, Bellevue, Everett,

Bremerton, Olympia;

15 Tools That Every Homeowner Should Own

admin — Sun, 14 Mar 2010 20:42:16 +0000

15 Tools That Every Homeowner Should Own

The following items are essential tools but this list is by no means exhaustive. Feel free to ask an InterNACHI inspector during your next inspection about other tools that you might find useful.

1. Plunger

A clogged sink or toilet is one of the most disturbing problems that you will face. With a plunger on hand, however, you can usually remedy these troubling plumbing issues relatively quickly. It is best to have two plungers — one for the sink and one for the toilet.

2. Combination Wrench Set

One end of a combination wrench set is open and the other end is a closed loop. Nuts and bolts are manufactured in standard and metric sizes and because both varieties are widely used, so you’ll need both sets of wrenches. For the most control and leverage, always pull the wrench toward you, instead of pushing on it. Also, avoid over-tightening.

3. Slip-Joint Pliers

Use slip-joint pliers to grab hold of a nail, a nut, a bolt, and much more. These types of pliers are versatile because of the jaws, which feature both flat and curved areas for gripping many types of objects. There is also a built-in slip-joint, which allows the user to quickly adjust the jaw size to suit most tasks.

4. Adjustable Wrench

Adjustable wrenches are somewhat awkward to use and can damage a bolt or nut if they are not handled properly. However, adjustable wrenches are ideal for situations where you need two wrenches of the same size. Screw the jaws all the way closed to avoid damaging the bolt or nut.

5. Caulking Gun

Caulking is the process of sealing up cracks and gaps in various structures and certain types of piping. Caulking can provide noise mitigation and thermal insulation, and control water penetration. Caulk should be applied only to areas that are clean and dry.

6. Flashlight

None of the tools in this list is of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation. The problem, and solution, are apparent only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight is usually sufficient, as larger flashlights may be too unwieldy.

7. Tape Measure

Measuring house projects requires a tape measure, not a ruler or a yardstick. Tape measures come in many lengths, although 25 feet is best. Measure everything at least twice to ensure accuracy.

8. Hacksaw
These are great for cutting metal objects such as pipes, bolts and brackets. Hacksaws look thin and flimsy, but they’ll easily cut through even the hardest of metals. Blades are replaceable, so focus your purchase on a quality hacksaw frame.

9. Torpedo Level
Only a level can be used to determine if something, such as a shelf, appliance or picture, is correctly oriented. The torpedo-style level is unique because it not only shows when an object is perfectly horizontal or vertical, but it also has a gauge that shows when an object is at a 45-degree angle. The bubble in viewfinder must be exactly in the middle, not merely close.

10. Safety Glasses / Goggles
For all tasks involving a hammer or a power tool, you should always wear safety glasses or goggles. They should also be worn while you mix chemicals.

11. Claw Hammer
A good hammer is one of the most important tools you can own. Use it to drive and remove nails, to pry wood loose from the house, and in combination with other tools. They come in a variety of sizes, although a 16-ounce hammer is the best all-purpose choice.

12. Screwdriver Set
It is best to have four screwdrivers: a small and large version of both a flat-head and a Phillips- head screwdriver. Electrical screwdrivers are sometimes convenient, but they’re no substitute. Manual screwdrivers can reach into more places and they are less likely to damage the screw.

13. Wire Cutters

Wire cutters are pliers designed to cut wires and small nails. The “side-cutting” (unlike the stronger “end-cutting” style) style is handy, but not strong enough to cut small nails.

14. Respirator / Safety Mask
While paints and other coatings have become less toxic (and lead-free) over time, most still contain dangerous chemicals, which is why you should wear a mask to avoid accidentally getting them in your lungs. A mask should also be worn when working in dusty or dirty environments. Disposable masks usually come in packs of 10 and should be thrown away after use. Full and half-face respirators can be used to prevent the inhalation of very fine particles that ordinary facemasks will not not stop.

15. Duct Tape

This tape is extremely strong and adaptable. Originally, it was widely used to make temporary repairs to many types of military equipment. Today, it’s one of the key items specified for home emergency kits because it is water-resistant and extremely sticky.

In summary, the above is a list of tools that every homeowner should have.

AllTrade Home Inspection – Seattle, Tacoma, Bellevue, Everett,

Bremerton, Olympia;

10 Easy Ways to Save Energy in Your Home

admin — Sun, 14 Mar 2010 20:13:54 +0000

10 Easy Ways to Save Energy in Your Home

Most people don’t know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, and here at InterNACHI, we want to change that. Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves. Of course, for homeowners who want their homes to take advantage of the most up-to-date knowledge and systems in home energy-efficiency, InterNACHI energy auditors can perform in-depth testing to find the best energy solutions for your particular home.

Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:

Federal, state, utility and local jurisdictions’ financial incentives, such as tax breaks, are very advantageous in most parts of the U.S.
It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient.
It increases indoor comfort levels.
It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming.
It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.

1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house.

As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:

Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy.
Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters.
Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70°F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs.
Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs.
Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces.
At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room.

2. Install a tankless water heater.

Demand water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don’t produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Demand water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. Therefore, they avoid the standby heat losses required by traditional storage water heaters. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. Either a gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don’t need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water.

3. Replace incandescent lights.

The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFL), can reduce energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.
LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy.
LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.

4. Seal and insulate your home.

Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy efficient -– and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI energy auditor can be hired to assess envelope leakage and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings.

The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

electrical outlets;
mail slots;
around pipes and wires;
wall- or window-mounted air conditioners;
attic hatches;
fireplace dampers;
weatherstripping around doors;
baseboards;
window frames; and
switch plates.

Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as:

Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas.
Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you’ll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry.
Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foam board insulation the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner.

5. Install efficient shower heads and toilets.

The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:

low-flow shower heads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up;
low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of two gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have “1.6 GPF” marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank;
vacuum-assist toilets. These types of toilets have a vacuum chamber which uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum toilets are relatively quiet; and
dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years, and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.

Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical U.S. home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:

Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.
Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption in the United States.
Use efficient “Energy Star”-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the DOE and the EPA’s Energy Star Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees.
Chargers, such as those for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged.
Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.

7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.

Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home’s interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches:

skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks;
lightshelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;
clerestory windows. Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and
light tubes. Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.

8. Insulate windows and doors.

About one-third of the home’s total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors:

Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option.
Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, weatherstrip around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren’t already in place.
Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window.
If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don’t work, they should be repaired or replaced.

9. Cook smart.

An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking:

Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens.
Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens.
Pans should be placed on the correctly-sized heating element or flame.
Lids make food heat more quickly than pans that do not have lids.
Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically.
When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster.

10. Change the way you wash your clothes.

Do not use the “half load” setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the “half load” setting saves less than half of the water and energy.
Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not that dirty. Water that is 140 degrees uses far more energy than 103 degrees for a “warm” setting, but 140 degrees isn’t that much better for washing purposes.
Clean the lint trap before you use the dryer, every time. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry.
If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks.
Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer.

Homeowners who take the initiative to make these changes usually discover that the energy savings are more than worth the effort. However, you should consider that inspectors can make this process much easier and perform a more comprehensive assessment of energy saving potential than you can.

AllTrade Home Inspection – Seattle, Tacoma, Bellevue, Everett,

Bremerton, Olympia;

Damaged electrical receptacles and light sockets

admin — Tue, 23 Feb 2010 01:29:11 +0000

Damaged electrical receptacles and light sockets!

This is some I have seen a lot of lately broken electrical receptacles and light sockets. These type of defects seem to show up in waves, you will see a few here and there and then you inspect a few homes and they are thought the house. Broken electrical fixtures such as these should be replaced for obvious safety reasons.

AllTrade Home Inspection – Seattle, Tacoma, Bellevue, Everett,

Bremerton, Olympia;

Mortgage Lenders at your local credit union?

admin — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 19:02:02 +0000

Mortgage Lenders at your local credit union?

Did you know that there are Mortgage Lenders at your local credit union? Since the 1930′s credit unions have been working with people of modest means. Credit Union’s were created with the philosophy of “people helping people” rather than putting profit ahead of people. As a member of a credit union, you are the credit union. You get a vote at the annual membership meeting, and get to voice what you like and what you don’t about the workings of the credit union. Your opinion counts! Did you know that most credit unions were created by people like you and me out of the back pocket of their jeans or coveralls?

Programs, products and services are designed to charge less and help you get ahead financially. The next time you purchase a home or investment, check out your local credit union. You may be surprised the difference in how much you would pay at your credit union vs. another lender.

By Debbie Nelson ( 12 year Credit Union Manager and Employee)

AllTrade Home Inspection

Washington’s Credit Unions

NCUA

AllTrade Home Inspection – Seattle, Tacoma, Bellevue, Everett, Bremerton, Olympia;

Aberdeen, Anacortes, Arlington, Auburn, Bainbridge Island, Bellingham, Bonney Lake, Bothell, Burien, Centralia, Covington, Des Moines, Edmonds, Ellensburg, Enumclaw, Federal Way, Issaquah, Kenmore, Kent, Kirkland, Lacey, Lake Forest Park, Lakewood, Longview, Lynden, Lynnwood, Maple Valley, Marysville, Mercer Island, Mill Creek, Monroe, Moses Lake, Mount Vernon, Mountlake Terrace, Mukilteo, Oak Harbor, Port Angeles, Puyallup, Redmond, Renton, Sammamish, SeaTac, Shelton, Shoreline, Tukwila, Tumwater, University Place, Vancouver, Washougal, Wenatchee, Woodinville, Yakima.

Common Electrical Conductor Types

admin — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 05:32:43 +0000

Common Electrical Conductor Types

by Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard

Poorly installed and maintained electrical cables are a common cause of electrical fires in homes. Many older homes contain wiring that is now considered obsolete or dangerous. InterNACHI inspectors should understand the basic distinctions between the different types of cable systems so that they can identify unsafe conditions.

Romex Cables

Romex is the trade name for a type of electrical conductor with non-metallic sheathing that is commonly used as residential branch wiring. The following are a few basic facts about Romex wiring:

Romex ™ is a common type of residential wiring that is categorized by the National Electrical Code (NEC) as underground feeder (UF) or non-metallic sheathed cable (NM and NMC).
NM and NMC conductors are composed of two or more insulated conductors contained in a non-metallic sheath. The coating on NMC cable is non-conducting, flame-resistant and moisture-resistant. Unlike other cables commonly found in homes, they are permitted in damp environments, such as basements.
Underground feeder conductors appear similar to NM and NMC cables except that UF cables contain a solid plastic core and cannot be “rolled” between fingers.

The following NEC regulations apply to Romex conductors:

They are not permitted in residential construction higher than three stories, or in any commercial construction.
They must be protected, secured and clamped to device boxes, junction boxes and fixtures.
Support devices that may damage the cables, such as bent nails and overdriven staples, are not permitted.
NM and NMC cables should be secured at intervals that do not exceed 4½ feet, and they should be secured within 12 inches of junction boxes and panels to which they are attached. Cables that do not comply with this rule can sag and are vulnerable to damage.
They are intended as permanent wiring in homes and should not be used as a substitute for appliance wiring or extension cords.

Note: Some communities have never allowed the use of Romex wiring in residential construction. Armored cable is typically used in these communities.

Armored Cables (AC)

Armored cable (AC), also known as BX, was developed in the early 1900s by Edwin Greenfield. It was first called “BX” to abbreviate “product B – Experimental,” although AC is far more commonly used today. Like Romex cables, they cannot be used in residences higher than three stories, and the rules for protection and support of AC wiring are essentially the same as the rules for Romex. Unlike Romex, however, AC wiring has a flexible metallic sheathing that allows for extra protection. Some major manufacturers of armored cable are General Cable, AFC Cable Systems, and United Copper Systems.

Service Entry (SE) Conductors

These cables begin at the splice and enter the meter. They are not permitted inside homes, with the exception of “style R” SE cable that can serve as interior wiring in branch circuits for ovens and clothes dryers. Style R cables should be clearly marked on their jacket surfaces.

Knob-and-Tube (KT) Wiring

Most houses constructed prior to World War II were wired using the knob-and-tube method, a system that is now obsolete. They are more difficult to improve than modern wiring systems and are a fire hazard. Knob-and-tube wiring is supported with ceramic knobs, and runs intermittently though ceramic tubes beneath framing and at locations where the wires intersect. Whenever an inspector encounters knob-and-tube wiring, s/he should identify it as a defect and recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate the system. The following are a few reasons why inspectors should be wary of this old wiring system:

The dissipated heat from knob-and-tube wiring can pose a fire hazard if the wires are enveloped in building insulation. A possible exception is fiberglass insulation, which is fire-resistant, although even this type of insulation should not cover knob-and-tube wiring. The homeowner or an electrician should carefully remove any insulation that is found surrounding KT wires.
Knob-and-tube wiring is more vulnerable to damage than modern wiring because it is insulated with fiber materials and varnish, which can become brittle.
Some insurance companies refuse to write fire insurance for houses with this type of wiring, although this may be remedied if an electrician can verify that the system is safe.
Disregarding any inherent inadequacies, existing KT cable systems are likely to be unsafe because they are almost guaranteed to be at least 50 years old.

In summary, inspectors should understand the different types of conductors that are commonly found in homes.

AllTrade Home Inspection – Seattle, Tacoma, Bellevue, Everett, Bremerton, Olympia;

“Cool” Energy-Efficient Roofs

admin — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 04:50:41 +0000

“Cool” Energy-Efficient Roofs

By Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard

Cool roofs, also known as reflective roofs, are roof surfaces designed to reflect radiation from the sun, reducing heat transfer into the building.

How do they differ from conventional roofing products?

Unlike most North American asphalt roofs, cool roofs are specially engineered to reflect much of the sun’s radiant energy back into space instead of transferring it as heat into the building below. The two basic characteristics that determine the performance of a cool roof are solar reflectance and thermal emittance. Both properties are rated on a scale from 0 to 1, where 1 is the most reflective or emissive. Although there is no industry-wide definition of a cool roof, the EPA’s Energy Star Roof Products Program has established a minimum standard, requiring that cool roof products have an initial reflectance of at least 0.65, and a reflectance of at least 0.5 after three years of weathering. By contrast, conventional asphalt roofs have a reflectivity of between 0.06 and 0.26, resulting in large amounts of heat transfer into the building’s interior.

The use of cool roof products offers the following benefits:

increased lifetime of roofing materials. Cool roofs do not experience thermal cycling as much as conventional roofs. Thermal cycling can deteriorate the bond between shingles and asphalt, potentially causing premature failure;
energy savings. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, some reflective roof products can lower roof surface temperature by up to 100 degrees and can reduce peak cooling demand by as much as 15%. Cool roofs may result in increased heating costs during the winter, but this increase is greatly outweighed by the cooling energy savings achieved during summer;
reduction of the “heat island” effect. This is the tendency for metropolitan areas to be warmer than their surroundings due to the use of building materials that retain heat. Studies have shown that this phenomenon increases the risk of death during heatwaves and decreases air quality by increasing the production of pollutants, such as ozone;
lower peak electrical demand. The maximum energy load an electric utility experiences in order to supply customers instantaneously, which generally occurs in late afternoons during summer as businesses and residences turn up their air conditioners, is reduced by the implementation of reflective roofs; and
utility rebates, in some areas. Generally, utilities pay back a certain percentage — usually about $0.20 per dollar — after installation and documentation. Their motivation for these incentives is to reduce the intensity and likelihood of blackouts and brownouts.

Cool Roof Product Types

InterNACHI believes that products generally fall into a few categories: single-ply materials, and coatings. Single-ply materials are large sheets of pre-made roofing that are mechanically fastened over the existing roof, and then sealed at the seams. Coatings are applied using sprays, rollers or brushes over an existing clean, leak-free roof surface. “Cool” versions of asphalt shingles are also available. These products include:

Coatings: Roof coatings can be divided into two categories: field-applied and factory-applied. Field-applied coatings are applied directly onto the roof surface, either on a new roof assembly or over an existing roof surface (and can be applied over the top of just about anything, as long as the correct coating is selected). Factory-applied coatings are applied during the manufacturing process. Examples of factory-applied coatings include coatings applied to metal, and glazes that are applied to tiles.
Single-Ply: Single-ply roofing is laid down in a single layer over a low or steep-sloped roof. The single-ply membrane can be loose-laid and weighted down with ballast or pavers, or firmly set on the roof and attached with mechanical fasteners or adhesives. Single-ply thermoplastic is a flexible sheet membrane which consists of compounded plastic polymers. When heat is applied onto the surface, the single-ply thermoplastic seams are melded together, making the material seamless and effective. Most thermoplastics are manufactured to include a reinforcement layer, such as polyester or fiberglass, for additional durability and strength. There are various types of single-ply thermoplastic, such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO). PVC tends to be more expensive than TPO, but PVC is well-known for long-term performance and is naturally fire-retardant. TPO is a blend of polymers that can contain flame-retardants or UV absorbers.
Asphalt Shingles: Although a challenging technical issue, some manufacturers have created dark-colored asphalt shingles that look almost identical to conventional shingles, yet they qualify as cool roof products. They accomplish this feat through the use of engineered pigments that reflect high amounts of invisible wavelengths, namely, infrared.

In summary, cool roofs are coatings and sheets that are applied to roofs to make them reflect the sun in order to keep building’s interior cooler and more energy-efficient, which is especially important during summer months and in warmer climates.

AllTrade Home Inspection – Seattle, Tacoma, Bellevue, Everett, Bremerton, Olympia;

Choosing a Manufactured Home

admin — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 04:42:29 +0000

Choosing a Manufactured Home

Manufactured homes no longer have to be the simple, rectangular, boxy trailer homes of the past. Depending on the size of your homesite, you can choose from single-section or multi-section designs. Homes range in size from 900 to 2,500 square feet, and can be customized to meet your needs and preferences.

What features are available?

The interior design of your home can include many of the custom features available in a conventional home. Because most manufacturers use computer-assisted design, you’ll have flexibility in choosing variations of floor plans and décor. You can also choose from a variety of exterior designs, depending on your taste and budget. Exterior siding comes in an array of colors and materials, including metal, vinyl, wood and cementicious sidings, which are virtually fireproof. Awnings, enclosures around the crawlspace, patio covers, decks and steps also are available.

How much can I expect to pay for a home?

Depending on the size, floor plans and any custom features, a new home can cost anywhere from $15,000 to more than $100,000. This price doesn’t include land.

What financing options are available?

Your retailer usually can provide information about financing. You can also check with lenders in your area. Just as there are choices when you buy a site-built home, there are a variety of financing options when you buy a manufactured home. Down payments and loan terms are similar to conventional loans (5% to 10% of the manufactured home’s sales price), and loan terms from 15 to 30 years. Most lenders offer fixed- and variable-rate loans, and most have programs that allow you to “buy the rate down.” If you own or plan to purchase the land where you will place your home, traditional mortgage financing can often be arranged.

What other costs can I expect to pay?

While your mortgage payment may be your biggest expense, you’ll have other regular and periodic payments which will vary with your circumstances. Regular expenses may include utilities, property taxes, land rental fees, insurance, routine maintenance, and other service fees, such as water and sewer. Today’s manufactured homes are built to meet new national energy standards set by HUD. The energy-conserving features found in manufactured homes help reduce monthly energy costs.

How much maintenance will my home need?

Your homeowner’s manual outlines maintenance requirements, and it’s important that you follow them. Failure to follow them could void your warranty, as well as erode the value and shorten the lifespan of your home. Additional maintenance, systems and safety information can be provided by an InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection.

What warranty coverage is offered on the home, its transportation and installation?

All manufacturers offer a written warranty which should cover:

structural workmanship;
factory-installed plumbing, heating and electrical systems;
factory-installed appliances, which also may be covered by separate warranty; and
appliance manufacturer warranties.

There are important differences among warranties. For example, manufacturer warranties usually do not cover installation (also called “set-up”) and transportation of the home, although you may be able to get this coverage through the retailer or installation contractor. Although you may never need such warranty services, it’s a good idea to check the coverage on any warranties offered before you buy.

InterNACHI-certified home inspectors know where to look for defective work. Whether you’re buying an existing home or considering a new home, allow the inspector to use his/her special knowledge to help protect you by finding defects while the home is still under warranty, and before they cause damage or injury to you or your family.

Where can I locate my home?

Many homes are placed on privately-owned property. If this option appeals to you, find out about zoning laws, restrictive covenants, and utility connections. Your retailer can give you more information. Another option is to place your home in a land-lease community specifically designed for manufactured homes. Here, you own the home but lease the land. Placing your home in a land-lease community involves fewer siting considerations, such as utility connections. A third option is buying the home and land together in a planned subdivision where siting issues are handled by the developer.

May I move my home?

Yes, but it’s not a common scenario. The transportation of a home can place considerable stress on its structure and components. Nevertheless, if you do plan to move your home in the future, make sure you check with the appropriate state authorities about transportation and zoning regulations. States have restrictions on weight, size and width that may prevent you from moving your home. If you relocate, make sure you use a professional transporter; never try to move the home yourself. It’s also important to check the climate zone maps for your home. These maps tell you the wind, snow and thermal zones for which your home was constructed. Use them to determine whether your home is suitable for the new location you’re considering.

The actual overall costs connected with moving are another consideration. In addition to transport expenses, which include licensing fees to take your home through a state, you’ll have to pay for a new foundation, installation, and utility hook-ups.

AllTrade Home Inspection – Seattle, Tacoma, Bellevue, Everett, Bremerton, Olympia;

Childproofing Your Home

admin — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:21:19 +0000

Childproofing Your Home: 12 Safety Devices to Protect Your Children

About 2.5 million children are injured or killed by hazards in the home each year. The good news is that many of these incidents can be prevented by using simple child-safety devices on the market today. Any safety device you buy should be sturdy enough to prevent injury to your child, yet easy for you to use. It’s important to follow installation instructions carefully. In addition, if you have older children in the house, be sure they re-secure safety devices. Remember, too, that no device is completely childproof; determined youngsters have been known to disable them. You can childproof your home for a fraction of what it would cost to have a professional do it. And safety devices are easy to find. You can buy them at hardware stores, baby equipment shops, supermarkets, drug stores, home and linen stores, and through online and mail-order catalogues.

InterNACHI inspectors, too, should know what to tell clients who are concerned about the safety of their children. Here are some child-safety devices that can help prevent many injuries to young children.

1. Use safety latches and locks for cabinets and drawers in kitchens, bathrooms, and other areas to help prevent poisonings and other injuries. Safety latches and locks on cabinets and drawers can help prevent children from gaining access to medicines and household cleaners, as well as knives and other sharp objects.

Look for safety latches and locks that adults can easily install and use, but that are sturdy enough to withstand pulls and tugs from children. Safety latches are not a guarantee of protection, but they can make it more difficult for children to reach dangerous substances. Even products with child-resistant packaging should be locked away out of reach; this packaging is not childproof.

Typical cost of a safety latch or lock: less than $2.

2. Use safety gates to help prevent falls down stairs and to keep children away from dangerous areas. Look for safety gates that children cannot dislodge easily, but that adults can open and close without difficulty. For the top of stairs, gates that screw into the wall are more secure than “pressure gates.”

New safety gates that meet safety standards display a certification seal from the Juvenile Products Manufacturers Association (JPMA). If you have an older safety gate, be sure it doesn’t have “V” shapes that are large enough for a child’s head and neck to fit into.

Typical cost of a safety gate: $13 to $40.

3. Use door knob covers and door locks to help prevent children from entering rooms and other areas with possible dangers, including swimming pools.

Be sure the door knob cover is sturdy enough not to break, but allows a door to be opened quickly by an adult in case of emergency. By restricting access to potentially hazardous rooms in the home, door knob covers could help prevent many kinds of injuries. To prevent access to swimming pools, door locks should be placed high, out of reach of young children. Locks should be used in addition to fences and door alarms. Sliding glass doors, with locks that must be re-secured after each use, are often not an effective barrier to pools.

Typical cost of a door knob cover: $1; door lock: $5 and up.

4. Use anti-scald devices for faucets and shower heads, and set your water heater temperature to 120° F to help prevent burns from hot water. A plumber may need to install these.

Typical cost of an anti-scald device: $6 to $30.

5. Use smoke detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms to alert you to fires. Smoke detectors are essential safety devices for protection against fire deaths and injuries. Check smoke detectors once a month to make sure they’re working. If detectors are battery-operated, change batteries at least once a year, or consider using 10-year batteries.

Typical cost of a smoke detector: less than $10.

6. Use window guards and safety netting to help prevent falls from windows, balconies, decks and landings. Window guards and safety netting for balconies and decks can help prevent serious falls. Check these safety devices frequently to make sure they are secure and properly installed and maintained. There should be no more than 4 inches between the bars of the window guard. If you have window guards, be sure at least one window in each room can be easily used for escape in a fire. Window screens are not effective for preventing children from falling out of windows.

Typical cost of a window guard or safety netting: $8 to $16.

7. Use corner and edge bumpers to help prevent injuries from falls against sharp edges of furniture and fireplaces. Corner and edge bumpers can be used with furniture and fireplace hearths to help prevent injuries from falls, and to soften falls against sharp and rough edges.

Be sure to look for bumpers that stay securely on furniture and hearth edges.

Typical cost of a corner and edge bumper: $1 and up.

8. Use outlet covers and outlet plates to help prevent children from electrical shock and possible electrocution.

Be sure the outlet protectors cannot be easily removed by children and are large enough so that children cannot choke on them.

Typical cost of an outlet cover: less than $2.

9. Use a carbon monoxide (CO) detector outside bedrooms to help prevent CO poisoning. Consumers should install CO detectors near sleeping areas in their homes. Households that should use CO detectors include those with gas or oil heat or with attached garages.

Typical cost of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector: $30 to $70.

10. Cut window blind cords; use safety tassels and inner cord stops instead to help prevent children from strangling in blind-cord loops. Window blind cord safety tassels on miniblinds and tension devices on vertical blinds and drapery cords can help prevent deaths and injuries from strangulation in the loops of cords. Inner cord stops can help prevent strangulation in the inner cords of window blinds.

For older miniblinds, cut the cord loop, remove the buckle, and put safety tassels on each cord. Be sure that older vertical blinds and drapery cords have tension or tie-down devices to hold the cords tight. When buying new miniblinds, vertical blinds and draperies, ask for safety features to prevent child strangulation.

Prices vary.

11. Use door stops and door Hholders to help prevent injuries to fingers and hands. Door stops and door holders on doors and door hinges can help prevent small fingers and hands from being pinched or crushed in doors and door hinges.

Be sure any safety device for doors is easy to use and is not likely to break into small parts, which could be a choking hazard for young children.

Typical cost of a door stop and door holder: less than $4.

12. Use a cell or cordless phone to make it easier to continuously watch young children, especially when they’re in bathtubs, swimming pools, or other potentially dangerous areas. Cordless phones help you watch your child continuously without leaving the vicinity to answer a phone call. Cordless phones are especially helpful when children are in or near water, whether it’s the bathtub, the swimming pool, or the beach.

Typical cost of a cordless phone: $30 and up.

In summary, there are a number of different safety devices that can be purchased to ensure the safety of children in the home. Homeowners can ask an InterNACHI inspector about these and other safety measures during their next inspection.

AllTrade Home Inspection – Seattle, Tacoma, Bellevue, Everett, Bremerton, Olympia;